7 Tips to Prevent Light Bulbs from Blowing Out

Light bulbs in some fixtures can blow out before their expected life span. Usually the source of the problem is easily detected and corrected.
The following are eight tips to maximize the lifespan of your light bulbs.

Tips to prevent light bulbs from blowing out:

  1.  Do not screw bulb in too tight.

    maximize the lifespan of your light bulbs.

    maximize the lifespan of your light bulbs.

  2.  Use better light bulbs.
  3.  Reduce the heat around the light fixture. Uncover or move the fixture. Using a bulb with a lower wattage may also work. Heat can blow a bulb.
  4.  Reduce the amount of vibrations around the light fixture or use a 130 volt light bulb. It is stronger and able to withstand more vibrating than other bulbs.
  5. Dimmers and timers blow out some fluorescent lights.
  6. Use an electrical meter to check that the electric current in the light fixture is a constant 120 volts. Electrical currents that are too high, low or fluctuate can blow out a light bulb. A difference of 5% between the voltage in the wires and the light bulb is enough to blow out a light bulb.If there is a steady current, use bulbs that match the voltage of your reading.
  7. If the flow is too low or is not constant, inspect the blown out bulb for indentations. If there are indentations then there is probably a loose connector in the fixture where the bulb is screwed into.

To tighten the connectors on the light fixture:

  1. 1. Unplug the lamp or turn the electricity off in the room off the fixture.
  2. If necessary unscrew the light fixture.
  3. Find loose any connectors, wires and gaps in the connectors.
  4.  Tighten the loose connectors and wires by tightening the connecting screws.
  5.  Screw the light fixture back into place.

Five Best Ways To Unclog Your Pipes

Unclog your Pipes

Frequently, drainage pipes in sinks, tubs and sewage pipes get clogged and prevent water from flowing. There are many simple solutions that that may clear the drain. Tending to the source of the clog the first time will prevent recurring clogs in the conduit pipe. Drano and other chemical products may improve the situation immediately, but usually the problem will come back.
A blockage that starts near the lip of the drain needs to be dealt with differently than a blockage deep in the pipe. Some times, you may need to try a couple of these tips together to unclog the drain.

For a build up of gunk and hair at the oppening of the drainpipe:
Option 1: Unscrew the Strainer: Unscrew the strainer that fits in lip of the pipe. Clean it out.
Option 2: Wire Hanger: Straighten out a wire hanger and use it to clear out and dislodge any hair, gunk and objects that are caught near the opening of the drain.
Option 3: Plunger:
1. Push up and down repeatedly on the plunger while creating an airtight seal around the drain hole. Use water as needed to maintain the airtight seal and a maximum of air pressure.
2. Clean out any dirt that comes up.
Option 4: Open the Catch Basin/ Trap: 
1. Put an empty bucket under the catch basin. Normally, the catch basin is directly under the sink.
2. Turn the pipe counter clockwise by hand or with a plumber’s wrench.
3. Let the filthy water drain into the bucket.
4. Clean out the catch basin and pipes with a plastic knife.
5. Screw the catch basin back on by turning it clockwise.

For a blockage deep in the pipes:
Option 5: Drain Snake/ Drain Auger: 
1. Unscrew the strainer in the drain.
2. Push the head of the drain snake into the pipe.
3. Every few feet twist it around and push it up and down. You do not need an electric spinner although it may be helpful.
4. Push the snake down through any bends or obstacles that may prevent the snake form being lowered. Twist the snake around and up and down. If you feel any thing caught on the snake, carefully remove the snake. Clean any dirt that is brought up with the snake.
5. Repeat until you think you cleared the drain. When the obstacle is cleared you will probably feel or hear it.
6. Test it by pouring water down the drain.

If you like this post, you might also like to learn about repairing and removing conduits for electric wires – click here!

How to Repair Your Shaking Wooden Chair

Repair Wooden Chair

Well-made wood chairs are made to last several generations. However, when they start to shake, wobble or creak excessively it is time to repair them. Shaking is not a fault in the chair or the wood. Probably the glue, screws or pegs loosened. Shaking chairs may only need to have a few screws tightened. Tighten all of the screws and replace perpetually loose screws with wider screws. Not repairing them leaves them prone damage that may be difficult to restore.
If your chairs need more than screw tightening this guide will explain how to refurbish wooden chairs that need to be reglued. Chairs may have different designs, supports and sizes but the fundamentals are usually the same.
Tools: Wood glue, clamps, screwdrivers, wooden pegs, rags.

To repair wooden chairs

1. Unscrew all screws that support the legs, seat frame and cushion of the chair.

2. Remove the cushion from the chair.

3. Carefully detach the front of the chair from the back by pulling the front away while holding the back in place.

Warning: Do not forcefully separate any joints that are glued together. Forcefully separating them may damage them.

4. Carefully, pull all loose leg and seat frame parts apart.

5. Arrange the parts of the chair as it should be connected. Take note of parts that stick out (especially corner pieces) that need to be reassembled first because they will not fit into a partially assembled chair.

Note: If wood is cracked, glue it together. If not, you will need a carpenter to replace that piece of wood.

Use properly sized wooden pegs to replace any damaged pegs.

6. Starting with the corner pieces, wipe the joints with a dry rag and apply wood glue on both sides of the joints to be connected. Put some glue in the peg hole too.

7. Carefully attach the matching parts together and press them together tightly leaving no space in between the two parts.

Note: The wooden pegs can easily be damaged while connecting two parts together.

8. Screw in any screws that support that joint.

9. Wipe away excess glue.

10. Repeat steps 6 -9 until the chair is reassembled.

11. If possible, clamp all of the joints with a clamp. To protect the wood tighten the clamps over a folded cloth or smooth wood block. Let glue dry over night.

12. Screw the cushion on.

Good Luck!

Take a look at this video I’ve found and try to learn how to do it yourself:

How to Repair and Remove Conduit for Electric Wires

remove conduitsConduits for electric wires hold and protect electrical wires. To avoid damage to conduits and wires it is important to install conduits away from sources of heat and water. In event that conduits are damaged it is important to repair them promptly to avoid damage to wiring. Damaged conduits may be a sign of damaged wiring.

There are different types of electric conduits. Match the replacement electric conduit with the existing conduit. Ensure that the conduit is wide enough to hold and rethread all the wires.

Tools: Electric conduit, conduit connectors/fittings, pipe cutter/conduit saw, wrench, pliers and/or screwdriver, threading tool, electric tape, electric fish tape, electric pulling lubricant.

To uninstall conduits for electric Wires

1. Shut off the electricity flow.

2. Disconnect the wires as close to the damage as possible. This will reduce the amount of rethreading wires through the conduit later on.

3. Pull one end of the wires out of the conduit.
Note: In many situations it will be helpful to attach fishing tape to the wires and wrap electrical tape around them before the removal of conduit wires. You will need to separate the fishing tape from wires later on to get rid of conduits that were damaged and to install the new sections of conduit.

4. Unscrew or use pliers to remove conduit supports.

5. If the damaged area is part of a small section of conduit, use a wrench to unscrew the electrical conduit fittings on both ends of the damage.


If there is a large section of conduit, use a pipe cutter or conduit saw to cut out the damaged section of conduit. Cut a couple of inches extra into the undamaged parts of the conduit.
Get rid of conduit pipes that were damaged.

To install the new conduit for electric wires

6. Measure the size of conduit needed to replace the removed conduit.

7. Cut a piece of conduit piping with a pipe cutter or conduit saw according to your measurements.

8. If the wires in the original conduit are accessible, pull them out of the conduit opening.

9. Place the wire through the new conduit. If needed, detach the wires form the electric fishing tape.

10. If you did not push the electric fishing tape through the conduit (as recommended in step 3), push electric fishing tape through the conduit starting where the wires were disconnected.

11. Wrap the uninsulated end of the wires around the electric fishing tape head and wrap electric tape around them.

12. Put electric pulling lubricant on the electric tape that covers the head of the electric fishing tape.
For complete wire pulling instructions and tips, click here

13. With a wrench, screw electric conduit connectors over your cut piece of conduit and over the existing conduit on both sides. Make sure it is tight.

14. Screw the conduit supports back where they were.

15. Pull the wire though the conduit using a threading tool to feed the wires into the conduit and by carefully pulling on the fishing tape on the other end.

16. Reconnect the wires to there original place.

17. Turn the electricity back on.

Read more about how to remove conduit cables

How to Install Shelves – Tips and Guide

How to Install Shelves

How to Install Shelves

Before installing shelves, you must plan well.

You want them to look good, be strong, functional, straight, and fit right. The way to secure shelves on a wall depends on the type of wall. The following is a guide to install shelves in brick or concrete wall. Often the exterior walls of buildings and basements are cement or brick.

Tools: Shelves, brackets or standards (for a series of shelves), 7mm x 3.5cm plastic plugs with matching screws 4.5 x 45mm, 4x16mm wood screws, level, tape measure, pencil, drill with 7mm masonry drill bit (wing tipped), screw drivers.
The sizes of screws and plastic plugs here are for sturdy shelves. It is a good idea to have 8mm plastic plugs and 5mm screws for holes that are drilled too wide.
The size of plastic plugs and screws… should vary according to the purpose of the shelves. Make sure that brackets, shelves, plastic plugs are strong enough to carry twice the intended weight.

To Install Shelves

1. Measure and mark the desired position of each shelf with a line. Check that the line is straight line must be straight.

2. Place each bracket just under the line and mark the position of the holes. Each bracket or standard should be 40-81cm away from the next. Make sure there is a bracket within the last sixth or 15 cm of the shelf.
Note: At every step, check with the brackets or level that everything is aligned properly.

3. Make a starter grove for the drill with a hammer blow to a nail over the mark.

4. Drill a hole in the starter grove with a 7mm masonry drill bit.

Drilling tips:

1. Use hammer action for drll.

2. Put tape on over the starter grove to prevent damage to the sorounding area.

3. Put tape on the drill bit marking 3.7cm, the desired depth for the hole.

4. Vacuum each hole.

5. Drill the holes for the bracket one at a time using the bracket to ensure that it is aligned with the previous one.

6. Hammer the 7mm plastic plugs into the holes. Do not damage the plugs.

7. Position the bracket holes over the plugs. Alternate screwing in the 4.5 x 45mm screws through each bracket hole and plug until they are very tight. The bracket is secured.

8. Repeat steps 3-7 for each bracket.

9. Put the top shelf evenly distributed on its supporting brackets.

10. Screw in the 4x16mm screws into the horizontal bracket holes and the shelf. The shelf is secure.

11. Repeat steps 9-10 for each shelf.

Good luck!

How to Install a Toilet Seat

How to install toilet seat

Changing your toilet seat can improve your life. Think about it. How much time does each one of us spend every day on the toilet? OK, so it’s not in the same league as your bed (at least I hope not) but still, a broken, dirty, ugly, worn out, or uncomfortable toilet seat is not something that you have to live with. Toilet seats are not expensive plus a new one will make your bathroom prettier. Here is a step by step guide to installing a toilet seat.

Tools and equipment needed: new toilet seat, tape measure, flathead screw driver, pliers and a rag.

To install a toilet seat

1. Measure the length and width of the old seat. Take note of the seat’s shape, i.e. circular or oblong.

2. Measure the positions of the seat’s bolt mountings. Write all of the measurements down. Buy the toilet seat of your choice that matches your measurements.

3. Pry the plastic bolt covers out of their hole with a flat head screwdriver to expose the bolts.

4. Unscrew the bolts with a screwdriver while holding the seat in place and remove the screws. It may be necessary to hold the nuts on the opposite side down with a pair of pliers as you unscrew the bolts. The seat is free.

5. Remove the old toilet seat.

6. Clean and dry the area where the bols were.

7. Remove the covering from the adhesive pads and any packaging material from the new toilet seat.

8. Align the seat mountings with the screw holes.

9. Thread the bolts into the holes of the toilet seat mountings and the back of the toilet’s rim. Screw the bolts in. The old bolts should still be usable. You can use them. If the old bolts are damaged, use the new bolts that come with the new toilet seat.
Note: If the bolts are plastic, over tightening may damage them.

10. Snap the plastic bolt covers over the bolts. Your new toilet seat is installed. Enjoy!